Campi Flegrei and Then Some-Riccio Restaurant - Baia Port (Na)

 

A pleasant stroll on a windy summer day on the port of Baia...and then I arrived.  My reservation was for 1 pm, and I believe that I was quite punctual, if I must say so myself.  As I was getting my bearings, I saw her from a distance.  Her- Roberta Di Meo- who greeted with a warm handshake and even warmer smile welcoming me to her restaurant-Riccio Restaurant.

This was my first time to Riccio, so Di Meo kindly filled me in on the small ristorante's background story.  It was then that I learned that she opened the restaurant back in 2016 with her father, Salvatore.  Their intention was to share their passion for Campi Flegrei- not just in the cuisine, but in the local wines as well. So slowly over time- and the addition of Chef Agostino Alboretto the restaurant grew and is a favorite spot in the area.

Di Meo handed me the wine list- which features local wines as well as national/international offerings.  I chose a Falanghina from Contrada Salandra - a wine which would pair perfectly with the chef's fish based menu.

Let's talk about the chef's menu.  Alboretto is all about no waste, sustainability, seasonality, and of course full on flavor.  And not because it is in style- it is part of this young chef's DNA.  So that is why I decided to put myself in his hands.  The chef did not disappoint.  We decided to focus on amazing appetizers and first courses.  

Take a look...

Amazing appetizers included a raw seafood platter with tartufi di mare/sea truffles, razor clams, shrimp, and oyster.

Then ...

Tuna tartare and guacamole

 with citrus sauce

Shrimp and lemon foam

cuttlefish with oil, lemon and cuttlefish ink salt

carpaccio of mahi mahi and basil crumble

Alboretto thought, that for the next set of appetizers, a trip to the dry ageing refrigerator was necessary.  There he was able to pull out some of his seafood salamis that fit in perfectly with Riccio's no waste philosophy...

The cured fish : tuna speck, swordfish bresaola and amberjack belly

Riccio's  dry ageing refrigerator - with plans to expand

Time to warm things up-still in the appetizer area-

grilled octopus with mushrooms

Cod grenadine and Phlegraean broccoli

Skipjack burger

lampuga- known as a 'pesce azzuro magro' a light blue fish. this is one of the fish that you'll find in the markets this season, an consequently, on the table in restaurants such as Riccio Restaurant - Baia Porto. chef Agostino Alboretto served me a fillet with escarole and black olives...on the side

razor clams au gratin

Let's go back to the topic of no waste- here is Alboretto's seafood tripe featuring the 'fifth quarter' of amberjack and grouper, a squid ink crumble, potato cream and parsley chlorophyll 

Time for a first course or two-  the fall season called and Ricco Restaurant answered-  with

 a pumpkin risotto with cuttlefish and porcini miushrooms....

Spaghetti with razor clams...

Second course- I had to pass.  (I'll return)...but I did go for a dessert.  Babà with a glass of La Sibilla's Passio 2013 dessert wine made with Falanghina...

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A peerfect dessert to top off a perfect afternoon in Baia...Definitely a not to miss spot-not only for the food, location, but also for the spirit of Roberta, Agostino, and Salvatore...

Scusa, but I had to take a selfie!!!  A presto!

from left to right, me, Salvatore Di Meo, Roberta Di Meo and Agostino Alboretto

 

A Taste of Neapolitan Culture a Tavola- Chef Giovanni Erculanese -Casa a Tre Pizzi (Na)

 

One Friday afternoon I stopped by Casa A Tre Pizzi for a chat with Chef Giovanni Erculanese. I had just visited an archaeological site in nearby Posillipo. I was quite excited about that particular visit because I learned so much about the history of that particular section of Naples and thus that particular history of the Campania region. The chef and I discussed how important it is to understand the history and culture of a region or area to help us also understand and appreciate the evolution or creation of a particular dish or recipe in a restaurant. 

That is why I was so excited when I sat down a week later for dinner just a couple of metres from the pass to try some of the chef’s dishes for the new season.  

Casa a Tre Pizzi is a restaurant located where Mergellina meets Posillipo.   The restaurant is run by the Notaro family – Andrea, Mirko and their father Salvatore- from Somma Vesuviana, a town near Naples.   Why is this important you may ask? Well, Somma Vesuviana is a town famous for cod fish. 

During that dinner,  I had the chance to try cod fish in two different dishes.  The first dish was a linguine with cod fish/Romano cheese and pepper.   Let's examine, if  just lightly the idea behind this dish.   Cacio e pepe is a popular Roman pasta dish often made with linguine or spaghetti.   The chef gave it a Campania swing by using cod fish. 

 A touch of mullet bottarga and lime...then.  A fantastic first!   Chef Erculanese explained that he gave the dish a boost of flavour by using a  stock fish broth.  

The second dish that once again focused on the territory is one that was quite exciting for me, to be honest.   This dish was called Baccalà a Mergellina -translated as Cod fish in Mergellina. 

There is a section of Mergellina that is quite exciting vibrant full of life.   In this part of Mergellina, you will find food stands, food trucks,  chalets, bright lights,  traffic,  cars,  motorcycles,  vespas,  et cetera et cetera.   But you will also find small tables, plastic tables, plastic chairs.   A bottle – an  ice cold bottle of beer, taralli---maybe some lupini beans, green olives, salt and pepper.  That is what the chef sees as he walks out of work  night after night after  night before heading home.  That was the inspiration for his  dish.  His cod fish is embraced by taralli crumbs,  then we have a foam made with  beer which represents the top of the beer glass - you know when you pour your beer you have that top that's all foamy?  To the side - we have a clear gel. In this clear gel we see our lupini, our  green olives a little bit of salt and pepper.

 

So two dishes that are able to stand strong by themselves, are given that extra push when you understand the idea their culture that territory behind the dish.

Complimenti, Chef Erculanese...Complimenti, Casa a Tre Pizzi...

A Presto!

Hot in the City - Bothanica, Fuorigrotta (Na)

 

Karen, have you spoken to Giuseppe lately?  Do you know he opened up a restaurant? 

Really?  I asked my friend Luca.  Where?

In the city...

It has been a couple of years since I had seen Giuseppe.  A couple of crazy years, so, no- I was unaware that after last summer in Ischia, my friend, maître sommelier Giuseppe Di Ruocco had recently opened up a restaurant in Fuorigrotta in Naples. 

Bothanica.

Bothanica is a green oasis in the heart of the city, not far from downtown Naples.  Not far from the soccer stadium, right next to a very busy hospital.  But you soon forget all that as you turn down the dirt road that takes you into a place world’s away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Naples is like that.  It has hidden pockets of peace that let you take a little break form the city without leaving the city.

It is in this little pocket where Di Ruocco and Mario Maselli opened up Bothanica e few months ago.  Bothanica – a concept where Di Ruocco could express his passion for nature, good food and great wine all in one area verde.  A garden party to be shared with enthusiasts who have the same appetite as he does.

I arrived at 730 pm, in time to have an aperitif and a chat with Di Ruocco as he served me their farm drink – Bothanica di Terra; gin with infusion of Mediterranean herbs, and tonic water. 

 

It was time to held over to the table, mine was next to a swing tied to one of the many trees which circled Bothanica’s outside dining room.  Soft music in the background, a cool breeze, a glance at the menu.

A menu which gives you a choice of a la carte or 3 tasting menus.  Bothanica Antica, Bothanica Terra, Bothanica Mare.  I chose Terra.

Here’s a look.

Clockwise from the top left corner-zucchini 'ex apicio', pelatello salami and sheep cacciota cheese, 

eggplant parmigiana, Tropea onion omelette and wild pucchiacchela, grilled ricotta in walnut leaves.

When it came to decide on the wine, I took a look at the list and found these words-

Giuseppe Di Ruocco

it is not a wine list

it’s fermentation,

research,

tastings,

vineyard wines,

stories of winemakers,

tales of bold people,

back to nature,

a hymn, a toast ...

I decided to let Di Ruocco choose the wines and he introduced me to two wines, two wineries.

For my appetizer- La Terapia, Casavecchia from Il Vino del Professore – a small winery located in the small town of Castel di Sasso, in the province of Caserta.

Instead, for the rest of the meal, we travelled to Montemarano in the heart of Irpinia wine country.  Volpe Rossa from La Cantina di Enza.  One of the few wineries that produces wines with the basically unknown red grape- Coda di Volpe.  Di Ruocco opened up a young 2015, seasoned my glass before pouring for me.

This glass accompanied me with a fantastic first of candele pasta alla Genovese.  A dish which I associate with cooler months.  Instead, I know realize that one of my favorite pasta dishes, when prepared right, can be served all year long. Compliments to Chef Napoleone Caffarelli.

 For my second course – we hopped into the Bothanica Antica menu.  For a bite or two of muzzariello (a spicy sausage often used in minestra maritata) with potatoes cooked under ashes and fried green peppers.

Dessert – a chocolatey off the menu choco power.

I didn’t just have my nose in the glass and fork in my mouth.  I chose to spend my first evening at Bothanica taking a look around, taking a walk around.  Soft music from the deejay.  Children of all ages enjoying the swings, the company, the fresh air.  Enjoying that pocket of peace in the city without leaving the city…

 

The Courage to Dream, Bugiarda Style- Hosteria Bugiarda, Bacoli (Na)

 

Chef Luigi Costigliola and Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola

Ok, but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda? I asked with a smile and giggle.    That was one of my questions during my pre pre-dessert chit chat with Chef Luigi Costigliola and  Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola in Hostaria Bugiarda’s cool cozy dining room last Sunday afternoon.  You see, bugiarda in Italian means liar – and I had just spent the last couple of hours with these two cousins who  took me on an enogastronomical journey full of flavors, creativity, some surprises-but no lies.

A journey which began soon after Luca showed me to my comfy corner booth and asked me what I’d like to drink.  You decide, please, was my response, but let’s try to keep it in Campania. 

Montenuovo Rosé Campi Flegrei  Piedirosso, Cantine Babbo 

 

Luca poured a glass, I sipped as Luigi sent out his welcome- pane e panelle – a fried chickpea sandwich on a homemade bun.

                                               

Off to a good start.  Let’s take a look at how the rest of the trip went. I put myself in their capable hands. 

Appetizers- I tried 3.  

Beef tartar, quail and a fried parmigiana ball. 

For this part of the trip, Costagliola opened up a bottle of Coda Di Volpe, Vadiaperte.

Pasta and potatoes.  

But don’t let your eyes fool you.  This is not a plate of pasta, but Costigliola’s twist on the popular pasta dish.  This appetizer, though, is made entirely with potatoes – from the spaghetti shaped curls to the purple potato cubes representing pancetta cubes. 

Squid with a creamy cicerchie sauce on top of a panzanella salad.

First course – I tried 2.

Fettucine with red shrimp, basil, and roasted eggplant colatura sauce.

Fiano di Avellino DOCG Fiano di Avellino,  Colli di Lapio

Tortello alla nerano with mussels from Miseno.

 

Second course – I tried their catch of the day.

Purple potato crusted sea bass with leek cooked at low temperature and wrapped in kataifi dough.

Now it was time for the pre- dessert, you know, at the point where this blog post began.  Where Chef Costigliolo stepped out of the kitchen for a chiacchierata.  It was during this part of the trip where I learned quite a bit about the two cousins.  Costigliola (33 years old), son of a chef, at the tender age of 13 decided that he wanted to follow in his father’s footsteps.   The chef has worked in Hamburg, London, as well as Rome, Milan, and his home Campi Flegrei. Luca Costagliola (30 years old) went down a different path- the dining room, working at home in various locations around Bacoli as well as Rome.  In June of 2019 they decided to open up Hosteria Bugiarda. 

Ok, chef,  but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda? I asked with a smile and giggle.    

Luca and I are liars from birth- he answered, this time it was his turn to laugh. 

Then I learned the truth.  Back in the day, in the area,  many families had the same or similar last names.  To avoid confusion, people were given nicknames, like bugiarda.  Liar.

So…that out of the way, it was time to get back to our journey.  The sweet stops – bugiarda style.

Pre- dessert- Panna cotta with cardamom, citrus crumble and apricot jam.

Dark raspberry.

Amaro Formidabile by Armando Bomba. We left Campania and went to Rome for this one.

 Petit four

Shortcrust pastry tart, yellow cream and apricot

Savarin coconut and white chocolate

Chocolate truffle

So, the end of my lunch, the end of my journey.  On my way out the door, I couldn't help but notice these words on the wall...words that I think fit perfectly.

The world lies in the hands of those that have the courage to dream and who take the risk of living out their dreams - Paolo Coelho.

Buon lavoro, ragazzi!